2002 Kawasaki Prairie 650 carburetor with bad diaphragm. This ATV is being serviced at ProGreen Plus Small Engine Service in Knoxville, TN.
The carburetor diaphragm on the right hand side is damaged and needs to be replaced. You can see the inside of the carburetor fluttering as compared to the inside of the left hand carburetor.
This creates a build-up of fuel since the carbs are not synchronized. Watch the carburetor backfire as it loads up with fuel.
ProGreen Plus Small Engine Service has experienced master technicians that can service all brands of atv’s, 4 wheelers, mini-bikes, and more, including Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Polaris, Arctic Cat, and others.
We recently serviced a 2007 Honda Shadow 750 motorcycle that had been in storage for several months. The motorcycle only had 46 miles on it! The owner contacted us after experiencing issues after pulling the bike out of storage. It wouldn’t start at all.
We removed and cleaned the carburetor, drained and flushed the fuel tank, and cleaned the entire fuel system.
Pictured is part of the fuel petcock valve that we replaced. We have placed the old one next to the brand new one so that you can see the difference. Gasoline with ethanol is very corrosive and quickly damages rubber parts. It is striking to see how much damage was caused to a relatively new part due to prolonged ethanol gasoline exposure.
We recommend using 100% gasoline whenever you can. We know that is getting more and more challenging to find. There are several aftermarket products available, such as Startron, that have a special enzyme that neutralizes the impact that ethanol can have. We treat all of the gasoline that we put in our equipment with it.
Your power equipment may have similar issues after being stored all winter long.
This is the time of the year when you REALLY need your blower to clean up all of those fall leaves. Often, blowers sit in the shed or garage for long periods of time without being used….and when you need it, it won’t start.
Most of the time, start-up issues can be resolved by putting in a new spark plug and replacing the old fuel with fresh fuel. sure to use the correct spark plug for your application and make sure that the plug is gapped and indexed to your manufacturer’s specifications. We will have the correct spark plug for your blower in stock at our shop.
If you still are having start-up issues or if your blower just isn’t running right, there are several other items that may be causing the problem. First and foremost is engine compression. Two-cycle engines are very simple, but very temperamental. They need 100 psi of compression or more (ideally around 117 psi) to run correctly. Two-cycle engines use engine compression to pump the fuel through the carburetor.
We will test your blower or any other two-cycle engine’s compression level for FREE at our shop.
Low engine compression usually means your blower is dead. It is usually cost-prohibitive to fix low compression issues. Time to buy a new blower.
If your compression is good, then the most common issue causing the problem is carburetor related. Many times this can be resolved by installing a new carburetor kit. Our parts department can assist you in finding the right kit for your carburetor.
Arctic Cat swings for the fences with race-inspired UTV
After first catching sight of a wicked-looking sport side-by-side from Arctic Cat in March, we finally have some concrete details to provide you. The Wildcat is real and it’s coming soon!
Baja Inspired
According to Arctic Cat the new 2012 Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000i H.O. was inspired by the unforgiving terrain of the Baja 1000 and engineered to attack the gnarliest obstacles with precision and control.
Arctic Cat boasts that the all-new Arctic Cat Wildcat V-Twin 1000 H.O. is the most potent pure-sport recreational off-road vehicle ever built and features industry-leading suspension travel, 13 inches of ground clearance, a full-perimeter frame and the largest displacement engine in its class.
You can expect to see the Wildcat 1000 in showrooms in the fall.
“The Wildcat has no equal. Period,” says Claude Jordan, Arctic Cat President and CEO. “Our customers asked for a high-performance side-by-side, and we happily responded with a no-compromise, pure-sport hot rod that redefines what’s possible with a production off-road vehicle.”
Suspension
While the powerful engine is headline-grabbing, it’s the suspension of the Wildcat that will catch the attention of the hardcore enthusiasts. Arctic Cat says the Wildcat can “effortlessly hammer through whoops and dunes thanks to a front and rear suspension combination that rivals those used on off-road race buggies.”
At the rear is an industry-first five-point, multi-link trailing arm suspension that is designed to keep the tires’ contact patches flat while the suspension moves through its 18 inches of travel! We had to read that part twice!
“The unique five-point, multi-link minimizes camber and axle plunge to soak up the harshest terrain without compromising handling and steering,” says Arctic Cat.
Up front, the double-wishbone front suspension boasts a best-in-class 17 inches of travel, with geometry that’s optimized for stability and control. Both the front and rear suspensions are dampened by Walker Evans Racing shocks. Designed from a lifetime of off-road competition and experience and also made in the USA, these remote reservoir shocks are machined from billet aluminum and feature 17-position compression dampening adjustability, dual-rate springs and preload adjustment. They’re calibrated with ample ride-in to help keep the Wildcat’s tires on the ground.
The all-new Duro Kaden 14-in tires were developed specifically for the Wildcat, utilizing an elongated tread pattern designed to extend to the tires’ shoulder and provide excellent cornering, traction, performance and durability in rough conditions.
Chassis
The foundation for the Wildcat’s suspension is a full-perimeter frame that Arctic Cat says sets a new standard in strength, rigidity and durability. Usually found only in off-road race trucks, the chassis is constructed from High Strength Low Alloy (HSLA) steel with a full-perimeter exoskeleton design that’s a first in the UTV class. With a 40/60 front/rear weight distribution, the Wildcat’s front end is designed to remain light for optimal handling when tackling gnarly terrain. According to Arctic Cat, occupants in the cockpit of the Wildcat are positioned close to the low center of gravity, leaving them less affected by movements of the suspension and chassis and producing a more comfortable and confident ride.
If the stars align properly we would love to do a head-to-head comparison with the Wildcat 1000i H.O. and the Polaris Ranger RZR XP 900.
1000 H.O. Engine
Built in St. Cloud, Minn., the 1000 H.O engine that powers the new Wildcat is the largest displacement engine in the Pure Sport UTV category. The 951cc V-Twin, SOHC 4-stroke with Electronic Fuel Injection has proven itself on the Prowler XTZ. On the Wildcat, the 1000 H.O. has been tuned to deliver even stronger acceleration thanks to the extra torque and horsepower provided by heavy breathing 50mm throttle bodies, a new 2-into-1 ceramic-coated exhaust and an all-new air intake system. The close-coupled, mid-chassis engine location is designed to neutralize the Wildcat’s handling, maximize the rider/passenger volume and reduce cockpit noise
The engine transfers power to the driveshaft via the Duramatic automatic CVT transmission. The addition of the Spike Load Dampener allows the driveline to slip for a millisecond under harsh spike loads, reducing the torque load to the system for optimal durability. A console-mounted shifter allows quicker gear selection between Reverse, Neutral, High and Low gears. Likewise, a dash-mounted switch activates 2- or 4-wheel drive with differential lock. Four-wheel hydraulic disc brakes provide strong, enhanced braking.
Electronic Power Steering
Arctic Cat outfitted the Wildcat with Variable Assist Electronic Power Steering with the goal of delivering even greater steering control and ease. The EPS system is a managed electronic control unit that measures steering input force, tire resistance and vehicle speed, and then provides the appropriate assist to the steering column through an electric motor. Steering assistance begins at idle, and varies based on the above inputs. According to Arctic Cat this results in light steering input effort at speed while maintaining the right amount of driver feedback to feel the limits of traction and control. The power assist is particularly noticeable at low speeds and when in 4WD (especially with the differential locked), where its reduced steering effort eases changing direction or navigating tough obstacles like washouts, rocks or mud.
Interior
In the interior of the Wildcat you’ll find contoured, high-back bucket seats with upper body supports that are designed to deliver exceptional comfort and body stability. In fact, Arctic Cat boasts that these seats rival any aftermarket suspension seat on the market. The cut and sewn design cradles the Wildcat occupants to minimize fatigue. A 3-point seat belt with an anti-cinch design keeps you in place.
Getting in and out of the Wildcat should be quick and easy thanks to a tube-frame door with integrated nets. Pivoting from the rear and latching at the front via a simple one-latch mechanism, the doors open quickly and easily, swinging out of the way for hassle-free entry/departure.
Other interior features include an infinitely adjustable tilt steering wheel, a new five-inch digital/analog round gauge that displays 14 critical operations, a locking glove box, and two easy-to-reach cup holders.
Premium Features
The Wildcat is dressed in automotive-style paint: Black Metallic or Arctic Green Metallic. LED headlights and taillights come standard and provide clear, bright light. The Wildcat’s rear cargo bed has the largest capacity in its class with a 300 lb. payload to carry a cooler and additional fuel containers. A 12V accessory outlet is located in the center console for GPS or cell phone adapters. The alternator capacity has been increased for accessory lights, radios or winches. The underside of the Wildcat features full-protection HDPE skid plates to help glide over protruding obstacles, while the chassis utilizes maintenance-free bushings for added durability.
Accessories
If the Wildcat isn’t quite wild enough for you, Arctic Cat will offer more than 50 products to help further set it apart. An array of trick lightweight aluminum protective accessories will be available, like front and rear pre-runner bumpers, rock sliders, A-arm guards and skid plates. A contoured half windshield with a dust management system will divert the wind up and over the rider while the stylized T-top style roof with integrated rear spoiler and built in headliner has room to install your tunes. Look for other items like a gas can holder, spare tire carrier, cooler holder, fender flares and a box cover to arrive shortly among a host of other products.
2012 Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000i H.O. Specs
Engine Displacement
951 cc
Engine Type
V-Twin, SOHC, 4-stroke, 4-valve
Fuel System
Electronic Fuel Injection
Cooling System
Liquid
Transmission/Final Drive
Duramatic CVT P/R/N/L/H; Shaft
Drive System
Electric 2/4 WD w/ 4WD Lock
Front Suspension
Double A-Arm (compression adjustment & reservoir); 17 in. travel
Rear Suspension
5-Link Trailing Arm, (compression adjustment & reservoir); 18 in. travel
Brakes
4 Wheel Hydraulic Disc
Parking Brake
Park in Transmission
Tires
26x9R-14 front; 26x11R-14 rear
Wheels
Aluminum
Fuel Capacity
8.8 gal.
Bed Box Dimensions
35.8 x 21 x 8.4 in.
Bed Box Capacity
300 lbs.
Payload Capacity
740 lbs.
Lighting
White LED, High/Low front; LED, Tail – Brake rear
Adjustable Steering
Tilt Steering Wheel
Electronic Power Steering
Yes
Instrumentation
Digital Gauge, Analog Speedometer, Odometer, Tachometer, Trip meter, Gear Indicator, Fuel Gauge, AWD Indicator, Hi-Temp/Low-Batt Lights, DC Outlet
MSRP
$TBA
Source: ATV.com
ProGreen Plus Small Engine Repair services Arctic Cat ATV’s, four-wheelers, and more. We have access to thousands of Arctic Cat parts. Conveniently located in Knoxville, TN and serving Maryville, Oak Ridge, Powell, Farragut, Clinton, and all of East Tennessee. No appointment is necessary to schedule your ATV service. Call us at 865.235.1799 for more information.
Gums rapidly form in the fuel tank and fuel delivery systems as ethanol fuels age. However, ethanol is also a powerful solvent that will strip away and disperse this build-up back into the fuel as large, performance-robbing particles. This leads to clogged filters, injectors and carburetors.
Problem 2: Excessive Water in the Fuel and Phase Separation
Ethanol attracts moisture from the atmosphere, forming an ethanol/water solution mixed in the gasoline. E-10 fuel will naturally hold .5% water in suspension, but when water levels exceed this threshold, or when the fuel cools significantly, the water/ethanol mix drops out of suspension. This is phase separation.
Excessive water in the fuel tank causes engines to run rough, stall, and can lead to internal damage to engine components. Ethanol provides a significant amount of the fuel’s octane, so when the ethanol/water solution separates and drops to the bottom of the tank, the remaining fuel is left without enough octane to properly operate the engine. Additionally, the ethanol/water solution can become partially combustible, which can lead to engine damage.
Problem 3: Ethanol Fuels Break Down Quickly
Over a short period of time ethanol fuel begins to break down. As ethanol and other components evaporate, the fuel loses octane and becomes “stale”. This causes hard starts, pinging, and engine knock, which robs your engine of power and can cause damage.
Problem 4: Ethanol Causes Lost Power, Performance, and Decreased Fuel Economy
Ethanol fuel does not produce as much energy as traditional fuel. This results in inefficient combustion, decreased performance, reduced throttle response and poor fuel economy.
Solutions:
It would seem that the simplest solution would be to only use non-ethanol fuel (100 percent gasoline) in all of your power equipment.
The challenge is that finding gas stations that carry 100 percent gasoline are getting harder and harder to find.
There are chemical additive products available that specifically address ethanol problems. One of the products we recommend and use at our shop is Star Tron. Star Tron’s enzymes break down debris into sub-micron sized particles that can be easily burned during the combustion process, restoring full engine performance.
This enzyme formula also reduces interfacial surface tension between fuel and water. The molecular cluster size is greatly reduced, allowing more water to be dispersed throughout the fuel. These sub-micron sized droplets are safely eliminated as the engine operates. Star Tron treated fuel helps prevent phase separation by allowing more water to be burned off than with untreated fuel, drying out the tank and preventing water buildup.
This product also is a powerful fuel stabilizer which helps prevent fuel breakdown for up to two years. This results in easier starts and prevents pinging and knocking. It also improves octane levels of sub-standard, non-spec, or old fuel and in many cases can rejuvenate stale fuel, restoring it to a serviceable condition.
The enzyme formula helps to break apart large clusters of fuel molecules, creating more surface area.
This allows additional oxygen to react during combustion, which results in a more complete burn of the fuel, improved fuel economy, engine power, throttle response and reduced toxic emissions. This also reduces carbon deposits, keeping your engine clean and operating at peak performance.
We recommend Star Tron, which has the enzyme formula to keep gasoline with ethanol stable.
Here is a website link that reports on all of the gasoline stations in your area that sell 100% gasoline.
If you’re a lawn mower owner, you may be wondering about using ethanol fuel in your mower. Ethanol is a type of fuel that is made from corn and is often blended with gasoline. While it can be a cost-effective option, using ethanol in a lawn mower can be problematic. In this post, we’ll explore the impact of ethanol on lawn mowers and provide you with some essential tips on using ethanol in your lawn mower.
Firstly, it’s important to understand that ethanol can be harmful to lawn mowers, particularly if the ethanol content is more than 10%. Ethanol is a solvent that can break down plastic and rubber parts in your mower, causing damage and leaks. In addition, ethanol can attract moisture, which can lead to corrosion and rust in your mower’s fuel system.
What is ethanol gasoline?
Ethanol gasoline is a type of fuel that is a blend of gasoline and ethanol. Ethanol is a type of alcohol that is produced by fermenting plant material, such as corn or sugarcane. It is commonly added to gasoline in varying amounts, typically between 5% and 10%, to reduce emissions and improve octane ratings.
Ethanol gasoline is often referred to as E10 or E15, depending on the percentage of ethanol it contains. While ethanol gasoline can be a cost-effective and renewable alternative to traditional gasoline, it can also have some drawbacks, such as potentially damaging effects on some engine parts and decreased fuel efficiency.
As a result, the use of ethanol gasoline is a topic of debate in the fuel industry and among consumers.
Is Ethanol-Free Gas Better for Lawn Mowers?
Yes, ethanol-free gas is generally considered better for lawn mowers than gasoline blended with ethanol. Ethanol is a solvent that can break down plastic and rubber parts in a mower’s fuel system, causing damage and leaks.
In addition, ethanol can attract moisture, which can lead to corrosion and rust in the fuel system. Ethanol-free gas, on the other hand, does not have these drawbacks and is considered a safer option for lawn mowers. However, ethanol-free gas may be more expensive and harder to find than gasoline blended with ethanol.
It’s important to note that if you do choose to use gasoline blended with ethanol, it’s best to choose a blend that contains no more than 10% ethanol (E10).
Ethanol gas lawn mower problems:
We show you what happens when you run gasoline with ethanol in your lawn mower.
Problem1: Debris in Fuel
Gums rapidly form in the fuel tank and fuel delivery systems as ethanol fuels age. However, ethanol is also a powerful solvent that will strip away and disperse this build-up back into the fuel as large, performance-robbing particles. This leads to clogged filters, injectors and carburetors.
We show you the details of what happens when ethanol fuel in your mower stays in your carburetor.
Problem 2: Excessive Water in the Fuel and Phase Separation
Ethanol attracts moisture from the atmosphere, forming an ethanol/water solution mixed in the gasoline. E-10 fuel will naturally hold .5% water in suspension, but when water levels exceed this threshold, or when the fuel cools significantly, the water/ethanol mix drops out of suspension. This is phase separation. [pullquote]Excessive water in the fuel tank causes engines to run rough, stall, and can lead to internal damage to engine components. [/pullquote]Ethanol provides a significant amount of the fuel’s octane, so when the ethanol/water solution separates and drops to the bottom of the tank, the remaining fuel is left without enough octane to properly operate the engine. Additionally, the ethanol/water solution can become partially combustible, which can lead to engine damage.
Problem 3: Ethanol Fuels Break Down Quickly
Over a short period of time ethanol fuel begins to break down. As ethanol and other components evaporate, the fuel loses octane and becomes “stale”. This causes hard starts, pinging, and engine knock, which robs your engine of power and can cause damage.
Problem 4: Ethanol Causes Lost Power, Performance, and Decreased Fuel Economy
Ethanol fuel does not produce as much energy as traditional fuel. This results in inefficient combustion, decreased performance, reduced throttle response and poor fuel economy.
Solutions:
It would seem that the simplest solution would be to only use non-ethanol fuel (100 percent gasoline) in all of your power equipment.
The challenge is that finding gas stations that carry 100 percent gasoline are getting harder and harder to find.
Will Fuel Stabilizer Help?
There are chemical additive products available that specifically address ethanol problems. One of the products we recommend and use at our shop is Star Tron. Star Tron’s enzymes break down debris into sub-micron sized particles that can be easily burned during the combustion process, restoring full engine performance.
This enzyme formula also reduces interfacial surface tension between fuel and water. The molecular cluster size is greatly reduced, allowing more water to be dispersed throughout the fuel. These sub-micron sized droplets are safely eliminated as the engine operates. Star Tron treated fuel helps prevent phase separation by allowing more water to be burned off than with untreated fuel, drying out the tank and preventing water buildup.
This product also is a powerful fuel stabilizer which helps prevent fuel breakdown for up to two years. This results in easier starts and prevents pinging and knocking. It also improves octane levels of sub-standard, non-spec, or old fuel and in many cases can rejuvenate stale fuel, restoring it to a serviceable condition.
The enzyme formula helps to break apart large clusters of fuel molecules, creating more surface area.
This allows additional oxygen to react during combustion, which results in a more complete burn of the fuel, improved fuel economy, engine power, throttle response and reduced toxic emissions. This also reduces carbon deposits, keeping your engine clean and operating at peak performance.
Here is a website link that reports on all of the gasoline stations in your area that sell 100% gasoline.
What fuel should I use in my lawn mower?
To avoid these issues, it’s generally recommended that you avoid using ethanol fuel in your mower altogether. However, if you do choose to use ethanol, there are some steps you can take to minimize the risk of damage. Here are some tips:
Choose ethanol-free fuel: Look for fuel that is labeled as ethanol-free or E10 (meaning it contains no more than 10% ethanol).
Use a fuel stabilizer: If you’re using ethanol fuel, add a fuel stabilizer to help reduce the risk of damage to your mower’s fuel system.
Drain the fuel: If you’re storing your mower for an extended period of time, make sure to drain the fuel tank and run the engine until it stops to avoid any potential damage from ethanol.
Can I use ethanol gas in my lawn mower?
In conclusion, while it’s possible to use ethanol fuel in a lawn mower, it’s generally not recommended, especially if the ethanol content is more than 10%. To avoid damage to your mower, look for ethanol-free fuel or take steps to minimize the risk of damage if you do choose to use ethanol. By following these tips, you can help ensure that your mower runs smoothly and lasts for years to come.
To begin, roll your riding mower onto a flat level surface.
STEP 2: DISCONNECT THE SPARK PLUG
Disconnect the spark plug wire(s). This is typically located under the hood, or behind the seat.
STEP 3: EXAMINE THE SPARK PLUG
The spark plug(s) should be replaced every 100 hours or prior to storing in the fall. Damaged or worn plugs can increase carbon build-up while decreasing fuel efficiency and power output. Pay special attention to the numbers on the old plug. Make sure you buy a replacement plug with the same numbers. Using a spark plug with the wrong specifications can be fatal to your engine. See the ProGreen Plus article on how to read a spark plug to determine how your engine is performing. All replacement plugs should be gapped and indexed properly to ensure optimal engine performance.
STEP 4: TREAT THE FUEL IN YOUR RIDING MOWER
Difficulty starting the engine is the most common problem people experience with their mowers. This problem is caused by bad fuel. With today’s emissions standards, small, air-cooled engines cannot tolerate un-treated fuel that has been sitting in a gas can for over 30 days or fuel with more than 10% ethanol. To prevent these problems, add a fuel stabilizer to your gas can every time you refill it. Fuel stabilizers help to keep fuel combustibility levels up to specifications. Untreated fuel can become difficult to burn in small engines in as little as 30 days.
STEP 5: CHANGE THE OIL DURING YOUR RIDING LAWN MOWER MAINTENANCE
Your engine’s oil should be changed every 40 to 50 hours and prior to storing in the fall. It is important to change your engine oil because heat and friction begin to break down the oils’ ability to lubricate moving parts. Additionally, the oil suspends and removes worn particles from the engine. If left unchecked, these particles could cause premature engine wear. It is also important to change the oil filter, as it helps to remove worn particles and dirt from your engine’s lubrication system. To drain the oil, use whatever method works best for you: Many riding mowers have a drain plug that can be drained with the use of a plastic drain sleeve. The easiest way to drain oil from a riding mower is to use the Arnold Siphon Pump.
STEP 6: FILL THE OIL TO THE PROPER LEVEL
Refer to your Operator’s Manual and or Engine Owner’s Manual for the type and amount of oil needed to refill. Do not overfill; it can be as harmful as under-filling.
STEP 7: EXAMINE AND REPLACE THE AIR FILTER IF NECESSARY
The air filter should be checked every 25 hours and replaced after every 100 hours of use and prior to storing in the fall. Dispose of the dirty air filter and install a new air filter. If your mower is equipped with a pre-filter, you can clean it with liquid detergent and water, then thoroughly dry. Never operate your mower without a proper fitting filter. Dirt or grass can then accumulate in the engine, robbiing it of power and causing abnormal fuel use.
STEP 8: SHARPEN OR REPLACE BLADES WITH NEW RIDING MOWER PARTS
Mowing with dull or worn blades is harmful to your lawn. They tear, not cut, the blades of grass, making them susceptible to disease and browning. If the blade is chipped, bent or damaged, install replacement mower blade. Running a mower with a bent blade can cause excess vibration and unsafe mowing conditions.
STEP 9: INSPECT MOWER BELTS
Remove the belt guards and check the mower belts. If they are worn or damaged – replace them. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct part number. Remember to only use Genuine Factory Belts. They are designed specifically for your mowers pulley system and torque needs.. Non-original belts look similar, but may not set in the pulley properly or they may stretch, causing premature wear and replacement. Most riders also use belts to drive their transmissions. These belts can be challenging to service, so they are best maintained and replaced by a dealer. Loss of movement or sporadic movement could be signs of transmission belt wear or damage
STEP 10: CLEAN OUT THE DISCHARGE CHUTE AND LOOK FOR SIGNS OF DAMAGE
Check the discharge chute for damage. If this or any other safety feature is not functioning properly, immediately take your ridemower to an authorized service center. At this time, it’s also a good opportunity to clean any debris build-up. A putty knife works well for this.
STEP 11: LOOK AT THE BAGGER ON YOUR RIDING MOWER
If your rider is equipped with a bagger, check all the chutes and bags for holes, damage or tears. Any of these could lead to an unsafe operating condition.
STEP 12: LUBRICATE/GREASE SPINDLES
If your rider is equipped grease fittings, be sure to properly lubricate with a high quality grease. There are typically grease fittings on the front axle spindles as well as on the mowing deck.
STEP 13: DON’T FORGET TO LOOK AT THE TIRES
Check your front and back tires and deck wheels for excessive wear or damage. Replace if necessary. Inflate air to the proper air pressure settings.
STEP 14: CLEAN UP
At this point you have thoroughly maintained your mower. Once all of the riding mower parts have been replaced, check to make sure all fasteners are tight. Wipe up any fuel or oil spilled during the repair, and reconnect the spark plug wire.
Before you start to change your lawn mower oil, it’s important to not there are two primary methods for draining oil: the siphon/pump method and the tilt methods.
Siphon/pump method: Use a siphon, such as the Arnold Siphon Pump, to remove the oil directly from the oil fill tube and deposit it into an approved container.
Tilt method: Tilt the mower on its side, and use the dipstick tube as a drain. It’s best to wait until the mower runs out of fuel or the fuel is removed. A siphon can be used to transfer the fuel from the tank into an appropriate container.
All of these instructions on performing a lawn mower oil change applies to self-propelled and push mowers alike. Depending on your model, the instructions in this video may vary slightly.
STEP 1: START YOUR MOWER OIL CHANGE WITH WARM OIL
Both methods work best if the engine and oil are warm. Make sure the mower is on a flat, level surface. It’s not a bad idea to put down some newspaper or other material to catch any oil that may spill.
STEP 2: REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG WIRE
Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug and keep it away from the spark plug to preven unintended starting.
STEP 3: CLEAN THE AREA AROUND THE OIL TANK
Clean the oil fill area of any debris.
STEP 4: REMOVE THE DIPSTICK
Remove the diptsick.
STEP 5: PREPARE TO DRAIN THE OIL
Siphon method: Using the Arnold Siphon Pump, siphon the warm oil out of the dipstick fill tube. Insert the pump/siphon tube into the dipstick tube until it reaches the bottom of the dipstick fill tube. Insert the pump/siphon tube into the dipstick tube until it reaches the bottom of the oil container. Tilt method: Place an appropriate catch container under the dipstick tube. Also make sure that this is opposite the air cleaner so that oil doesn’t contaminate the air filter.
STEP 6: DRAIN THE OIL
Siphon method: Manually siphon out the oil. Be careful as the oil may be hot and could cause burns if it is too warm. Tilt the unit towards the side the dipstick tube is located to remove as much oil as possible. Tilt method: Carefully tip the mower in the direction of each catch container. Keep tilting the mower, making sure the oil is going into the catch container. Hold in this position until the oil flow slows to just a drip. Make sure the mower is tilted air cleaner side up to prevent oil contaminating the air filter.
STEP 7: RETURN THE MOWER TO AN UPRIGHT POSITION
Carefully tilt the mower back in the opposite direction to rest on the wheels. Remove the siphon tube if you were using that method.
STEP 8: CLEAN UP THE WORK AREA
Wipe up any spilled oil on the mower or floor if needed.
STEP 9: CHANGE THE LAWN MOWER OIL
Refer to your Operator’s Manual or Engine Owner’s Manual for the type and amount of oil needed to refill. Fill the mower with the specified amount and grade of oil Do not overfill as it can be as harmful to an engine as under filling.
STEP 10: LET THE OIL SETTLE
Wait 1 to 2 minutes for the oil to settle into the unit and then follow the instructions in the equipment or engine manual for checking the oil level.
STEP 11: REPLACE THE DIPSTICK WHEN DOWN CHANGING THE OIL IN YOUR PUSH MOWER
Rather than just use your mower in the summer and store it in the winter, perform regular lawn mower tune-ups to ensure it’s running well when you need it. Following these simple steps for push mower maintenance can help extend the life of your mower.
Depending on your model, the instructions below may vary slightly. If there are any safety features missing or broken, take the mower to an Authorized Service Center. For more detailed instructional videos, please see our how-to and video libraries, which focus on the maintenance items discussed in this video. Also, have a pad and paper handy so you can note any replacement push mower parts you need to buy.
STEP 1: POSITION THE LAWN MOWER FOR ITS TUNE-UP
To begin, place the mower on a flat, level surface.
STEP 2: DISCONNECT THE SPARK PLUG WIRE
Disconnect the spark plug wire to avoid unintentional starting.
STEP 3: INSPECT THE SPARK PLUG FOR WEAR AND TEAR
The spark plug should be replaced every 100 hours or prior to storing. It is important to replace your spark plug. Damaged or worn plugs can decrease fuel efficiency, power output and increase carbon build-up. Pay special attention to the numbers on the old plug. Make sure you use those numbers to cross reference to a replacement plug. Using a spark plug with the wrong specifications can damage your engine. All replacement spark plugs should be properly gapped and indexed to ensure optimal engine performance.
STEP 4: TREAT YOUR LAWN MOWER’S FUEL FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE
Difficulty with starting the engine is the most common problem people experience with their mowers. These problems can be caused by bad fuel. With today’s emissions standards, small, air cooled engines cannot tolerate un-treated fuel that has been sitting in a gas can for over 30 days or fuel with more than 10% ethanol. To prevent these problems, add a fuel stabilizer to your gas can every time you refill it. Fuel stabilizers help to keep fuel combustibility levels up to specifications. Untreated fuel can become difficult to burn in small engines in as little as 30 days.
STEP 5: CHANGE YOUR LAWN MOWER’S OIL
Your engine’s oil should be changed every 40 hours or prior to storing in the fall. It is important to change your engine oil because heat and friction begin to break down the oils’ ability to lubricate moving parts. Additionally, the oil suspends and removes worn particles from the engine, that if left unchecked could cause premature engine wear. To drain the oil, use one of three methods:
Use the drain plug, which is a feature on some mowers.
Use the Arnold Siphon Pump on mowes without a drain plug.
Tilt the mower and drain the oil through the dipstick tube. When tilting your mower, ALWAYS tilt the mower so the air filter is facing up.
Always dispose of used motor oil responsibly.
STEP 6: REFILL THE OIL DURING YOUR LAWN MOWER TUNE-UP
Refer to your Operator’s Manual or Engine Owner’s Manual for the type and amount of oil needed to refill. Do not overfill, as it can be as harmful as under-filling.
STEP 7: CLEAN OR REPLACE THE AIR FILTER
The air filter should be replaced after every 100 hours of use. As dirt accumulates in air filters, it begins to choke out the enging, robbing power and causing abnormal fuel use. If the air filter is dirty or a lot of grass has built up between the pleats – replace it. Dispose of the dirty air filter and add a new air filter to your push mower parts list. If your mower is equipped with a pre-filter, clean it with liquid detergent and water. Thoroughly dry it before reinstalling. Never operate your mower without a proper fitting air filter. Dirt or grass could get into your engine and it.
STEP 8: CHANGE WORN OR CHIPPED MOWER BLADES
Mowing with dull or worn blades is harmful to your lawn. They tear, not cut, the blades of grass, making them susceptible to disease and appearing brown. If the blade is chipped, bent or damaged – replace it. Running a mower with a bent blade can cause excess vibration and unsafe mowing conditions. Lawn mower replacement blades and the balancer/sharpener kit are available from most retailers who sell lawn mowers.
STEP 9: INSPECT THE DRIVE BELT FOR WEAR
If your mower is self-propelled, check the self-propel drive belt for wear or damage. If it’s worn or damaged, replace it. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct part number. Remember to only use genuine factory lawn mower belts; they are designed specifically for your mower’s pulley system and torque needs.. Non-original belts look similar but may not set in the pulley properly or they may stretch, causing premature wear and replacement. At this time, it’s also good opportunity to clean any debris build-up from the underside of the deck. A putty knife works well for this.
STEP 10: TAKE A LOOK AT THE TRAIL SHIELD AT THE REAR OF THE MOWER
Check the trail shield at the back of the mower for wear or damage. If this or any other safety feature is not functioning properly, immediately take your mower to an authorized service center. A service locator can be found on your mowers brand’s website.
STEP 11: LOOK FOR HOLES OR TEARS IN THE GRASS BAG
Check your lawn mower’s grass catcher for wear or damage. If there are holes or tear, operating the product could be very dangerous.
STEP 12: CLEAR THE DISCHARGE CHUTE OF DEBRIS
Check your discharge chute and mulching plug and clear away grass or debris.
STEP 13: EXAMINE THE DRIVE WHEELS
Check your drive wheels – the front ones on this model mower – for excessive wear or damage. You should have your drive system inspected, cleaned and adjusted by a service professional each year for proper long-term performance.
STEP 14: INSPECT THE CABLES, THE HANDLE BARS AND THE OPERATOR PRESENCE BAR
Inspect all cables, drive, operator presence bar, speed control, throttle etc. Look for fraying at the ends or kinks and possible cracks where the handle bars fold down for storage. Any needed service should be performed by an authorized Service Center.
STEP 15: REPLACE ANY NECESSARY PUSH MOWER PARTS
Once all of parts have been replaced, check to make sure all fasteners are tight.
STEP 16: CLEAN UP SPILLED OIL AND FUEL
Wipe up any fuel or oil spilled during the repair and reconnect the spark plug wire.
STEP 17: FILL THE MOWER WITH FUEL
Last, fill the fuel tank with FRESH fuel and start the mower. Try to purchase fuel with the lowest amount of alcohol possible because alcohol attracts water and water corrupts an engines fuel system. Don’t forget to add fuel stabilizer! It prevents hard starts and keep fuel fresher for longer and burn properly. (Sometimes after having the mower tilted on its side the engine will smoke on startup. This should stop after a short period of run time.) Now, you are good to go!
This video demonstrates the proper way to start and use a chain saw.
A STIHL chain saw is a powerful tool that can help you cut through even the toughest of trees and branches. However, it’s important to know how to properly operate and maintain your STIHL chain saw to ensure that it remains in good condition and operates safely. In this post, we’ll provide you with some essential tips on how to use and maintain your STIHL chain saw.
Read the owner’s manual: Before using your STIHL chain saw, make sure to read the owner’s manual thoroughly. The manual contains important safety information, as well as instructions on how to properly use and maintain your chain saw.
Wear protective gear: Always wear the appropriate protective gear when operating your STIHL chain saw. This includes safety glasses, ear protection, gloves, and a hard hat.
Check the chain tension: Make sure to check the chain tension before each use. A loose chain can jump off the guide bar, while a tight chain can cause excessive wear and tear on the chain saw.
Lubricate the chain: Proper lubrication is important to ensure that the chain moves smoothly and doesn’t overheat. Make sure to apply chain oil regularly to keep the chain lubricated.
Keep the air filter clean: The air filter prevents dust and debris from entering the engine. Make sure to clean the air filter regularly to ensure optimal engine performance.
Sharpen the chain regularly: A dull chain can cause the chain saw to kick back or bind, which can be dangerous. Make sure to sharpen the chain regularly to ensure that it cuts smoothly and efficiently.
Store the chain saw properly: When not in use, make sure to store the chain saw in a dry, cool place. Make sure to drain the fuel and oil tanks and clean the chain saw thoroughly before storing it.
By following these tips, you can ensure that your STIHL chain saw operates safely and efficiently for years to come. Regular maintenance and proper operation will not only help to extend the life of your chain saw, but also help to keep you and others safe while using it.
2002 Kawasaki Prairie 650 carburetor with bad diaphragm. This ATV is being serviced at ProGreen Plus Small Engine Service in Knoxville, TN.
The enzyme formula helps to break apart large clusters of fuel molecules, creating more surface area.
